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Dublin Pub Review

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Other reviews of famous Irish pubs can be found elsewhere:

Hello. Glad you could make it. Sit back and relax.

FINALLY - here it is. The most complete description of Dublin's liquid entertainment venues on the Internet. It is subdivided into two sections: pubs and nightclubs (with a short review of Dublin's comedy scence thrown in for good measure at the end). As the famous Irish writer James Joyce once noticed, it is quite impossible to walk through Dublin without passing a pub, not because Dublin is so small but there are so many pubs around. Since there are only a finite number of Megabytes disk space, only the venues which I've checked out myself are listed here. Wherever possible, the address of the establishment is given. Each venue has a several ratings which indicate:

1. The price charged for unit of basic nutrition (which happens to be a pint of Guinness around here): $ indicates moderate prices, $$ stands for the average rip-off and finally $$$ means don't go there without your credit card at hand. As it is the case with all cities where I've been so far, nightclubs tend be more expensive (rates vary from an additional 50 % to 100 %), the rating takes this into account. Be also prepared to pay a cover charge somewhere in the range from 3.50 Irish Punt up to 10 Irish Punt in order to get in.
2. An overall rating which goes from # (avoid at all costs) up to #### (definitely THE place to be). I know that this is highly subjective and I am prepared to get flamed, but hey folks, I did this review (so I am allowed to be rather nasty to some places :-).

• Standard disclaimer: This is just my personal selection of venues and the rating reflects my personal taste (this especially holds for the section on beers in Ireland below). If you have a different opinion, please refrain from ranting me by email.
• Additional information, descriptions and review are welcome any time. Please send the entry with an appropriate rating to ion@acm.org. When I have the time, I'll add the entry to this list.
• Pubs featuring traditional music bear a "*" in front of their name. When this is the case, I included the schedule as well (this information courtesy of the Event Guide ). Be prepared to pay some cover charge at times (normally around two pound). Bear in mind that schedule can be subject to change. Since I don't have the time to keep up with what's going on every week, things may have changed since I checked out the particular place the last time.
• To make up for that here's a valuable hint: the Event Guide is a fortnightly, free guide to the local scene detailing what's hot and what's not here in the rain(y) capital. You can get it in a couple of pubs (just ask for it), most certainly in Thomas Read's (see below).
• The Literary Pub Crawl: kinda of a touristy thing. What two freelance actors basically do is charge a ridiculous amount of money (I paid about a fiver even *with* concessions) and then guide you through a number of famous places on the South side of the city centre. Pubs include: Duke's Inn, the Long Hall and Davy Byrne's. Between the individual binges they impersonate famous people (drinkers :-) who were of some importance in times past. To be fair regarding the cover charge: there is a competiton at the end of the crawl where they give away free t-shirts, mouthwash, deodorant and skin lotion, all manufactured by under the famous label "Powers" (get it? :-). Rating: $$$, ### (It wasn't too bad. Hint: try to haggle if you're with a group. I had the impression they give smashing discounts.)
• The beer you get in Ireland: for the uninformed foreigner, the situation will be surprising, since the choice of brands is rather limited. This may seem to be strange, since Ireland has a reputation for, let me put it this way folks, not exactly having a dislike for intoxicating liquids (i.e. booze). In contrast to other countries such as Germany or the US, micro-breweries simply do not exist in Éire. Hence the variety of flavours is rather moderate. The following gives a short overview of what beers you get from the tab when you hit the local scene. Note that canned beers such as Satzenbrau or Holsten are omitted here, they will be included later.
  • Beamish: a stout brewed in Cork. Slightly cheaper and better in taste than other stouts (I hope I won't get killed for this remark). Hence real stout people such as me prefer it. More on Beamish can be found here.
  • Breo: a brand-new beer from Guinness currently market-tried in Dublin. It's a white lager (different from Harp) and supposed to be served really cold (the Guinness marketing literature speaks about 3 degrees centigrade in contrast to the recommended 8 for the stout made by the same company). It's currently available only in selected pubs (most of them in Temple Bar). Give it a go if you're not afraid to leave the beaten track and happen to be in the vicinity.
  • Budweiser: much better than the stuff you get in the States (and much stronger too; about 5 pc). Maybe that is because it's brewed here in Dublin by Guinness, in exchange the Guinness you get in the on the other side of the Atlantic is done by Annheuser-Bush (this is the reason why I don't drink Guinness in the States :-).
  • Caffrey's: simply a must coming from Co. Antrim up in the north. Though the manufacturing company claims it's an ale, it is not. It's more like a bright variant of Guinness with a thick, creamy head and a smoky but smooth taste. My current favourite.
  • Carlsberg: imported lager from God knows where (actually it comes from Denmark, as a few kind souls pointed out to me recently [you can stop sending hate email now!]. As with all non-German lagers (Harp and Irish Budweiser excluded), it is not worth the effort.
  • Foster's: lager from the Australia. Somebody coming from down under once told me that they are very small in their own country in terms of revenue and output. Nice for a change and not that bad.
  • Fürstenberg: a German lager, also done by Guinness in licence. Since they are better at making their own brands, you are quite safe to stay away from it. It cannot even touch the German original (at least this is my impression after a couple of serious headaches after consumption of this liquor).
  • Guinness: the most popular one. Being the famous stout, it features a black or dark brownish body with a creamy, white head. Quite heavy to drink (because it contains a lot of yeast), but rather light in alcohol (about 4.3 %). More information on this popular drink (just a mild understatement :-) can be found here.
  • Guinness's New Beers: this is a new line of premium beers made by Guinness aimed at the upper market (alas, the punter who can afford to splash out about 30% more for a pint). The line includes a wheat beer (German "Weißbier"), an ale, and two pilsners (continental lager-type beers). These new beers are only served in selected establishments; you won't get them in your local hostlery (unless you happen to live in Temple Bar). A personal recommendation: they are absolutely brilliant if you want to try something different that your ordinary run-of-the-mill lager or ale. For one, the alcohol content of most of the beers is slightly higher than average; another reason is the craftsmanship that went into the production (just my personal $.02), for example, my impression is that the wheat beer comes pretty close to the stuff you get in Bavaria.
  • Harp: Guinnesses own Lager. About the same strength as Budweiser (5 pc), but somewhat stronger in taste. For our German readers: unlike in this heaven for beer-drinkers, the term Lager around here refers to a head-less beer, light in colour and different in taste to the German stuff.
  • Heineken: definitely Dutch lager. It is only recommended when all the other stuff (stout, ale and the like) are gone (whenever that happens).
  • Kilkenny: Another Irish ale, done in the town with the same name. To sort out the confusion: in continental Europea and elsewhere, Kilkenny is another name for Smithwick's, a red ale done by the Guinness group. In contrast to this, here in Ireland it's more creamy, with a steady head. Pretty much like a light variety of stout, actually.
  • Labatt's: Another lager (this time from Canada), kinda strong (but only in taste not necessarily in alcohol). It's also available as Labatt's Ice, meaning that the brewing process was artificially stopped resulting in a smoother taste (Allegedly, that is. Field tests never really showed big differences in taste). It's not that popular on tab compared to brands such as Heinecken and Carlsberg.
  • Murphy's: Yet another stout, this time slightly dearer than Guinness. Somewhat milder in taste compared to your ordinary pint of plain. As with Beamish, you won't get it everywhere, since it's not as popular as Guinness. All the stouts contain about 4 % of alcohol. 
  • Smithwick's: Irish ale done by Guinness (again, regarding beer they seem to have a sort of strong position here in Ireland - note that I didn't use the term monopoly :-). Rather smooth and mild in taste, good as a first drink in the morning for curing a severe hangover.
  • Tennent's: Scottish lager that somehow made it over here. Kinda strong taste, and not my cup of tea. It's weak also - just has about 4.3 pc which may or may not be enough for me :-).

• Angler's Rest (Knockmaroon, Chapelizod): Well, this pub is not directly located in the city center, but sitting just next to the Liffey even behind the Phoenix Park it has a big advantage: nobody really knows it. So it was no wonder that the place was deserted when I got there. It was a splendid, warm, even hot afternoon (around here this means something like 20 degrees Celsius, which translates roughly into 78 degrees Fahrenheit, not to be compared to the temperatures you get on a decent summer afternoon in Orlando or New Orleans, but "Sin Éire", as we say ["This is Ireland" in the tongue of the natives]). Inside this pub is rather ordinary: a huge, long bar and plenty of space, but its real beauty unfolds when you step outside: sitting in the sun and enjoying your pint with a gorgeous view over the Liffey - if there were no trees (arrrg..). Therefore the Rating: $$, ### (yes, even for a suburban place quite expensive).
• * Auld Dubliner (17 Anglesea St): The name says it all. This is the place in Temple Bar where pensioners and other old people such as retired American tourists hang out :). Another traditional one. Rating: $$, ##
  Trad. session schedule: most evenings
• Aungier House (43 Aungier St): Next to the newly established DIT, this rather "traditional" pub bears no spectacular features apart from the rather odd-shaped house (step outside and take a look). Since the area can be a bit on the dodgy side of things, it is probably not a good idea to walk in there, boasting with a foreign accent and piling up the cash on the table with a set of cameras decorating the usual shorts/t-shirt combination (in other words: not ideal tourist location). Rating: $, ## (yes, it is CHEAP there).
• The Bachelor's Inn (31 Bachelor's Walk): This is a clean, friendly pub just aorund the corner from O'Connell Bridge. Seems to be a good place for a quick pint in between shopping binges or other city-center related activities. Though my American companion wasn't fully convinced of the place (He has his point: normally pubs tend to be DIMMER :-). Rating: $, ###
• Bad Bob's (Temple Bar): This place just across the street from the Kitchen is a mixture of night club, restaurant and pub open til VERY late. The menue at Bad Bob's is quite comprehensive though a bit overpriced (but this may be justified by the opening times). There seems to be life music nearly every night of the week, if not they play songs of the 70s downstairs of which you've never thought they even made it into 80s never mind into some 90s DJ's record collection. This is accompanied by mute cartoons playing on a big screen. Really eerie and surreal (esp. when on legal & illegal drugs), but your place should be into that sort of things (the regular crowd down there certainly is). Upstairs they spin charts and other MOR stuff, much more mainstream than in the vaults :-) . Be prepared to pay a cover charge if you arrive late. Rating: $$$, ###
• Barge (42 Charlemont Str): Found it! The nicest pub I've seen in Dublin so far. Newly renovated, this traditional multi-storey pub provides the atmosphere of an old barge (hence the name), the interior is just gorgeous. With nice, sunny weather you are able to take your pint outside (the bouncer doesn't really mind - strange but true in Dublin where all keepers and bouncers look after pint glasses very seriously) and sit beside the canal (BRILLIANT!). Of course, such decency has its price: they can charge quite much for a pint of black. Hence the Rating: $$$, ###
• Bellamy's Lounge (13 Ballsbridge Terrace): Nice, spacious pub just next to the bridge across the Dodder which gave this part of the town its name. A cozy interior with a lovely fireplace makes this place rather likable (and they have Beamish too!). Watch out for the pictures telling the story of the pub. Rating: $$, ##
• Bleeding Horse (24 Upper Camden St.): Large two-storeyed pub on the edge of Portobello. Normally really packed on weekends (but then which pub isn't), good venue to meet new people or just to hang out. Rating: $$, ##
• Bogarts's Lounge (somewhere on Duval St., Key West downtown, Florida, US of A): how the hell did that get here? Key West is not really good, old Dublin anyway, is it? (Well, you could be wrong with all these Floridians around here, trying to escape their home soil; the ed.) We might as well review it then, I guess. Seemed to be the only Irish bar in downtown Key West the time I went there. Pretty touristy, the Guinness was gross AND expensive (and warm!). And no, they didn't have Beamish nor Caffrey's but were claiming to be an Irish pub. Rating: avoid it!
• *Brazen Head (20 Lr. Bridge St): Claims to be Dublin's oldest pub. Apart from that: crammed tourist place, not overly impressive. Rating: $$$, #
  Trad. session schedule: Mondays
• The Bridge (Westmoreland St next to Bewley's): Two storey venue (for the second you have to go underground) just next to Bewley's in Westmoreland St. Upstairs it's an ordinary bar, whereas they serve food also downstairs. Pretty upmarket clientele, and so are the prices (hey, but then it is Bewley's, so what would one expect). I wasn't overly impressed with the crowd, but then it just was early evening. Rating: $$$$, ##
• Bruxelles (Harry St, off Grafton St): Trendy place for all ye Dublin yuppies. Seems to be the venue of choice for certain German (and other) Erasmus students as well, since most of the members of the German community I happen to know (actually, quite a few) tend to be regulars there. Apart from that nice two-storey pub just seconds away from the busy Grafton Street, although quite expensive. Rating: $$$, ##
• Busker's (Fleet St, Temple Bar): This pub not very far away from the Palace has become the substitute for the Garage, which is gone for good. Hence pretty much the same crowd and atmosphere: mostly young folks and loud music. If you're into lively vibes, perhaps THE place to go in Temple Bar; if you just want to have a quiet pint it maybe not the venue of choice. In any case, don't be frightened away by the fierce-looking bouncers; they're (mostly :-) harmless. Rating: $$$, ###
• Buttery (Trinity College): This pub and the Pav are located on the campus on Trinity college. This on-campus venue has a functional hall attached to it where all the amusement for our students happen. This includes live gigs and discos on Friday nights. Rather deserted during the term breaks (surprise, surprise). Rating: $, ##
• Alfie Byrne's(Chancery Place): This working-class venue right next to the Four Courts was my destination recently after a dinner in one of the posh eating places in Temple Bar for a quick one (the primary reason being that it is conveniently located on the way home from Temple Bar :-). Loud music was blasting through the closed doors which made me curios so I entered. As it turns out, they had an amateur band (euphemistic description) playing some jolly tunes. An (obviously) intoxicated regular was dancing just in front of the band and inviting some of the locals to join in. The fun even got better when he decided that it all was too hot and began stripping himself which was greatly appreciated by the crowd. Great craic! Rating: $$, ### (but beware: if it's not for the atmosphere on a Friday night, the place seems to be rather dull)
• Davy Byrne's (21 Duke St): Nice two-storey place just off Grafton St though a bit on the expensive side. But good to chill out from the Literary Pub Crawl. I'm sure there is some history connected to this place, ask the keeper if you're into this sort of thing. :-). Rating: $$$, ###
• Cafe en Seine (40 Dawson St): One of the hotter places for all you business people. Stylish interior of a typical French bistro blends nicely with the more up-market clientele. Excellent venue to plan your next (unfriendly) company take-over or even management buy-out. You never know, a banker with the right connections to finance such a venture might just sit next to you. Oh yes, I almost forgot: they serve one of the best coffees around here. Rating: $$$ (since coffee goes excellent with business meetings), ###
• Cafe Leopold (6 Anglesea St): This large pub being an extension of the Bloom's Hotel on the edge of Temple Bar has nothing extraordinary to tell about apart from some bands that sometimes play there (imagine Barry Mannylow after a couple of bottles of whiskey trying to imitate Elvis Presley - got it?). The PA is worse and loud - do not forget your ear plugs. Rating: $$$, #
• The Castle Inn (5 Christchurch Place): Groovy place which serves Caffrey's They seem to have a quite extensive menue there which is beyond your ordinary grub. On weekends this venue turns into a sorta nightclub whith no cover charged if you manage to get in early (whatever that means). The music ranges from MOR to really strange stuff such as Take That, etc. Sometimes the staff could be a bit friendlier to the paying customers (esp. the bouncers, we'll leave it at this rather vague clue...). The Rating: $$$, ##.
• Ceol (somewhere on Duke St): A rather traditional place with at least one snug (which of course was taken over by the DSG crowd almost instantly). The memory of this Friday afternon session is somewhat blurred (for some reason :-). The Rating: $$, ##
• The Chancery Inn (Corner of Inns Quay and Charles St West ): A little, cosy pub just off the Liffey and next to The Four Courts Inn. Nothing fancy except the huge TV set (NOT annoyingly loud though) and the lovely timber work (fake or not, I wasn't able to investigate since I was too busy watching TV :-). If only these large white rats weren't there (but then these could as well have been little doggies; the light was too dim to decide). Anyway, the major thing that counts is that the place seems to be damn cheap. Hence the Rating: $, ###
• Chocolate Bar (Lower Hatch St, just around the corner from the POD): Another hip, kinda trendy and rather unusual place (at least for the more traditional punters). Located right next to the POD, this venue features pretty much the same interior as the nightclub. Rumour has it that once the nightclub is open you can chill out here before returning to the dancefloor. Regulars included these up-to-date business people with mobile phones (sorry, I just don't like this species) and some Trinity people (us, to be exact). Check out the cocktails during happy hour (some good stuff like you'd find at Buskers). Downside: one of the most expensive places I've encountered here in Dublin so far (but hey, with that kind of clientele they can proabably charge that). Rating: $$$, ###
• The Clock (Between Cornmarket and Thomas St): Rather local place for south-side punter. Nothing special to report apart from the loud Karaoke music on Wednesday nights (unfortunately, this nuisance is taking over at an alarming speed here in Dublin). Rating: $$, # (since I don't like Karaoke)
• Club Chonradh na Gaeilge (6 Harcourt St): THE place for Irish speakers. Associated with an Irish language institute (Conradh na Gaeilge), this is the venue where foreigners can teach natives their language. Orders at the bar are accepted in Irish only, though in rare cases the keeper makes an exception. Since this is technically a club, they have somewhat liberal closing hours: I remember being kicked out at 2.30 am once, normally pubs have to close at 11.30 in Ireland. :-(((. Excellent live traditional music occasionally. Rating: $$, #### (Tá craic an-mhaith ansin!)
• Copper Still (152 Church St): This rather quiet local is has nothing much to offer. Good for talking or playing pool, but if you're into meeting people, I would recommend going somewhere else. Rating: $$, ##
• Conway's (71 Parnell St): Another famous, old one. This victorian establishment just off Parnell Square obviously has a long tradition, dating back to 1800 hundreds as the leaflet, which is available inside, tells us (a bit touristy, actually). It goes on about the fact that parts of the Snapper, a cult movie - at least around these shores - about a working girl who gets pregnant (accidently?), was shot in this public house. The interior suits the occasion, clearly victorian (the leaflet tells us that it was refurbished the last time just recently back in 1928 :-). Check it out yourself. And, yes, they do Beamish (so the leaflet may be excused :-) Rating: $$$, ###
• The Crane (Crane Lane): Well-hidden, small pub off Dame St. The crowd consists of business people mostly. Rating: $$, ##
• The Croppy Acre (Somewhere on the north side of the quays, when you're heading out of town past Kings and Queens, I think it's Wolftone Quays, but then I may be wrong. In any case, you can't miss it.): Beautiful new-ish venue just off the Liffey. Nice interior, mainly painted wood with a marvelous ceiling. Good craic during the weekend with the regulars from the area mostly (i.e. apartment people and Smithfield folk). Rating: $$, ###
• *Danger Doyle's (Opposite the IFC on Eustace St): Small, new venue just across the street from the IFC. Nothing fancy though and I cannot recall much due to a "function" I had to attend that night. And no, it's not dangerous as the name might suggest. Ideal venue for a quiet pint. Rating: $$, ##
  Trad. session schedule: Monday/Tuesday
• The Davenport Hotel (Merrion Sq.): Beautiful designed bar at one of the most renowned city-center hotels. A rather huge place allows to your quiet pint as well as to have a bit of craic the lads (no, I'm not paid by them, I just enjoy the place). Of course, there is a catch with that: such comfort has its price (not really surprising, since this is a hotel anyway). Rating: $$$, ###
• Dawson Lounge (25 Dawson St, St. Stephen's Green end): Claims to be the smallest pub in the country, but I've seen smaller ones (but we wouldn't tell them, would we?). This is the place where aggressive women's lib defenders with unfortunately good connections to the staff usually hang out (politeness forbids me to tell what happened to me there on a normal St. Patrick's day). Rating: $$$, #
• Diggs Lane (28-30 Lr Stephens St): Unassuming place almost next to Break for the Border. The place was almost empty when I decided to check it out recently apart from two female American tourists trying hard to get drunk on Baileys and other highly intoxicating (or was that flammable?) liquids. Apparently, the place is open late (i.e., late bar), so things might hot up a bit after hours, but I wouldn't hold my breath on it. But then it's a nice place to check out your new mobile phone so that everybody can share your excitement when you find out that the deal on NASDAQ just went down the tubes and you'll be living on baked beans for the rest of your life. Rating: $$, ### (but only when you make that phone call!)
• *Eamonn Doran's (Crown Alley): What used to the be Rock Garden is now a posh new place in town (actually, it's a bar / restaurant combination). The interior of this new watering hole has been done to make New Yorkers feel at home: pink walls but a rather nice bar. The place is really clean now (even the toilets), but the prices are soaring, I didn't bother checking out the food. Rating: $$$, ## (no fancy Smithwick's ads with that famous place in them which used to be the Rock Garden, sigh)
  Trad. session schedule: nightly
• Doyles of College Street (9 College St): Next to The Fleet this nice, small pub just across the road from Trinity College is the right spot for relaxation between tough project board meetings or other tiring stuff. There seem to be some gigs going on the weekends (upstairs) which I haven't checked out myself due to the lack of opportunity. The only drawback is: they don't have ANY Beamish :-(. Rating: $$, ##
  (Newsflash: the "gigs" on weekends consist of really good (but not LIVE) music. Unfortunately this doesn't affect the opening times :-( ).
• Duke's Inn (Duke St): Trendy place just off Grafton St. This is the place where the Literary Pub Crawl ends. Flashy interior with some marvellous wall decorations, though rather expensive. But hey, they do serve Caffrey's. Rating: $$$, ###
• *Fitzsimmon's (Temple Bar): Trendy place near the Clarence Hotel in Temple Bar. Mostly posers and business people. Music: not my cup of tea (though they sometimes seems to have nice traditional session, as sources tell me). Rather expensive. Rating: $$$, #
  Trad. session schedule: Sundays (12-2.30), set dancing Mondays - Wednesdays (9 - 11.30 pm)
• The Fleet (1 Fleet St): There is nothing much to report about this medium-sized lounge next to Doyles of College St apart from the fact that this is just across the road from the Screen Cinema and the Garda (Police) HQs. in Pearse St. And yes, they do serve beer on St. Patrick's day (but then which pub here in Ireland doesn't :-). Rating: $$, ##
• Na Fianna (Mobhi Road): Part of the GAA Club on Mobhi Road, this bar has a lot of going for it - for example the fact that it's officially only open to GAA members (that keeps the tourists out if should they ever happen to stumble across this traditional fortress of Irishness anyway :-). But despair not, if you know the right entrance, you'll make it anyway. If quizzed by a local, just pretend to search for your Irish roots (works especially well if you're American :-). Just mumble something across the lines of "My granddad used to tell great stories about this place before he died of liver failure". You'll be rewarded with one of the finest and cheapest pints in Dublin. Rating: $, ###
• The Foggy Dew (1 Fownes St): Another traditional basically gone :-). It used to be one of the few places in Temple Bar where the local could enjoy a quiet pint without being hassled by tourist (not that we don't like them). Recently, it has undergone a major refurbishment / enlargement and nothing resembles the old place. The interiors are lovely: exotic woods all over the place and some beautiful mirrors and mosaics. The crowd has changed too: from ordinary punters to the more trendy, upwardly mobile clientele. And the British you meet there seem always to be in a rush (especially the more beautiful ones). On the downside: the place seems to be more on the expensive side of things than it used to be :-(presumably to pay back the refurbishment loan). Rating: $, ###
• Four Courts Inn (Ormond Quay Upr.): This huge place on the quays just next to the Four Courts (hence the name :) has a nice interior with an interesting bar: the back of it consists of a large cupboard with all sorts of stuff in it (God only knows what is in the bottles and where they come from). Apart from that: cheap beer and relaxed on closing times (unfortunately rather relaxed on the issue of correct change also), therefore the Rating: $$, ##
• *Four Seasons Inn (199 King St North): Lively student venue just off Bolton Street. Most of the DIT (Dublin Institute of Technology) folk can be seen here on a decent Friday night (apart from strange working-class girls from Blanchardstown that is. Protection of the innocent forbids me to go into any further details.) Rating: $$, ###
  Trad. session schedule: weekends
• Jonny Fox's Pub (Somewhere deeply hidden in the Wicklow Mountains, but don't despair, it's sign-posted once you leave Rathfarnham): Rather touristy with a more "traditional" interior (as you would imagine reading glossy travel magazines and the like on "typical" Irish pubs), but quite nice to sit outside during the summertime. The food is excellent, a bit on the dearer side, but well worth the trip up into the mountains. Rating: $$$, ##
• The Front Lounge (Upper Parliament St): Kinda new watering hole just up the road from the Turk's Head Chop House. When you stand in front of it, the venue looks rather confined from the outside, but wait till you get in - the place stretches for miles and miles. Regarding the interior, it's one these new, posh places for the Yuppies of the Nineties (if this species really exists at all). Sort of Greekish style with nice white plasterings and cosy sofas for a change. Check it out if you had enough of the more traditional places in Temple Bar. And yes, the staff follows that contemporary fashion of wearing t-shirts with the name of the establishment printed on it. Rating: $$$, ### (it's kinda dear).
• The George(89 South Great Georges St): Dublin, trying to live up to its cosmopolitan ambitions, also has a couple of pink venues, the George being one of the better known places. Located just across the street from that trendy Globe, this large two-storey pub is a nice, comfy watering-hole for the community. Stocking the ordinary variety of beer brands and the usual activist literature (which, according to my sources, does not appeal to every one), it seems like good place to hang out for sraights and not-so-straights. They also run a couple of discos (sorry, events) during the week, so check the listings. Rating: $$, ###
• John Gleeson & Son (31 Wexford St): Near the POD, this place serves as good starting place for the activities later on. It has the further advantage that it is very quiet here compared to other pubs (in fact, I have never seen a pub so empty on a normal weekday). Rating: $$, ##
• Globe (15 South Georges Street): THE in-place for yuppies and other young and beautiful people. This is the reason why people can be seen to QUEUE in front of the entrance on weekends in order to get in after 9 pm. On the contrary, a nice, quiet pub at six o'clock in the evening. Rating: $$$, ##
• The Goalpost (9 Cathedral St): The name says it all. The interior of this pub just off O'Connell St consists mainly of memorabilia of various types of sports, though soccer (or football, as it's known in continental Europe) seems to dominate. The collection of pictures, medals and other stuff is huge and interesting. And for for the first time in Dublin I encountered a TV set in a pub which didn't annoy me because of the modest noise it produced (in fact it was so quiet that I could hardly understand what the newscaster was saying). In addition to that, this watering hole seems to be the hang-out of choice for the French community in Dublin. Rating: $, ### (since the rock shandy I had was rather cheap)
• Oliver St. John Gogerty (58 - 59 Fleet St): What a name for a pub. Close to the Auld Dubliner, this is a another tourist attraction, therefore quite expensive but with good pub grub. Hint: there is a restaurant upstairs which serves some of the most magnificent seafood in town. Arrive early or be prepared to wait since this a popular place. Rating: $$$, ## (+# for the food)
• Grogan's Castle Lounge (15 William St South): Cosy little bar just around the corner from the Powerscourt shopping centre. The more traditional interior features a display of stained glass. Rumour has it that some of the regulars are pictured here, among them a British anthropology student which is enrolled at Columbia (NYC, that is) but for some reason decided to spend most of his time here in Dublin in general and in this bar in particular (protection of the not-so-innocent forbids me to go into any further details). Apart from that, it is the part-time playground of illustrious folks such as Irish teachers and other members of the "club". Rating: $$, ###
• Hairy Lemon (Opposite Break for the Border): This two-storey venue just across the street from the famous (?) Dublin nightclub Break for the Border (or Break the Border, as known amongst experts :-) isn't exactly your local to have a quiet pint. This place is normally packed during weekends, so go there early in order to have a bit of breathing space. The selection of beverages is ordinary and so are the prices. The Lemon seems to be one of the hunting-grounds, errr, meeting points (to be PC) for Dublin's unattached. If the music wasn't so loud you even could take a chance and try out your new chatting-up line. Rating: $$$, ###
• Jack Nealon (SW Corner of Capel St and Mary's Abbey): Traditional place close to the city centre. Unbeknownst to most, this is cross-dressers central (forget the George and other "scene" spots). At the same time, it's done so discretely you wouldn't notice if you didn't know (but then you have this great guide :-). Don't miss this spot even if you're just passing through - marvellous times to be had. Rating: $$, ###
  
• Ha'penny Inn(Just off the Liffey at the Hapenny Bridge): Another famous, old one. This three-storey pub (two open to the public, one reserved for VIPs like me and functions :-) is a couple of yards away from the Hapenny Bridge (according to my sources, the name stems from some sort of toll once charged for crossing the river at this point) on the south side of the Liffey. Apart from the traditional interior (which is not that special) just a quiet local for an ordinary punter. Nice for having a chat even on a weekend (since it WAS quiet when I arrived on a Saturday night). There seems to be some music upstairs during weekends (which may or may not be considered "traditional" :-) - check it out yourself). To summarize: one of the few "down-to-earth" places in that posh vicinity otherwise known as Temple Bar. Rating: $$, ##
• Harp (O'Connell Bridge): A very exclusive pub (at least trying to be) at the "right" side of O'Connell bridge. Mostly business people and foreigners can be met there. When you're a girl from the Northside, beware of Spanish sailors who would like to take you to a hotel afterwards, since strange things may happen then :). Rating: $$$, ##
• Hogan's (Corner of Fade St and South Georges St) Large two-storey venue roughly opposite James Dean's Diner on South Georges St. Mostly students and other young, bohemian people (that's why the place appealed to me :-) have their drinks there. Absolutely gorgeous music, different things are played on either floor. If you're into meeting a member of the opposite sex, definitely the place to be on the Southside. At least I haven't seen a place in a long while which was so packed with good-looking girls (since I'm not into men :-). Rating: $$$, ### (No, I won't tell you what happened later that night, go there yourself to find out)
• Hole in the Wall (Phoenix Park): Close to Baggot Road and the Phoenix Park (not to confuse with the more innter-city located Baggot Street), this rather HUGE lounge is a nice hang-out place when you're fed up the the usual crowd waffling in your local. Since this place is kinda remote, nobody will have a clue who you really are (unless you're a regular THERE that is :). Cosy atmosphere with a couple of open fires. Rating: $$, ##
• Howl at the Moon (Lower Mount St): Famous hang-out place for tourists and other strange beings (like Scottish soccer fans). Apart from that, quite expensive with a night club downstairs. Rumour had it that they had no cover charge, but presently it still a modest charge to get in (depending on the night); maybe they'll change that again... Rating: $$, ###
• *M. Hughes (19 Chancery St): This cozy place near the fruit market is a good place for a decent pint of plain after a hard day at the office, sight-seeing and the like. Not very packed (even on the weekend) with reasonable prices, sometimes life music (not only ) on Fridays. Rating: $$, ### (since they had TWO groups playing music on a normal Tuesday)
  Trad. session schedule: nightly
• IFC Bar (6 Eustace St): This is the bar attached to the Irish Film Centre. Kinda quiet place, the venue of choice when about to split up with your partner or have a serious chat otherwise. Quite good food, recommended before and after films at the IFC. Rating: $$, ###
• The International Bar (23 Wicklow St): Eventually I decided to check this out since it has been on the agenda for a long time now, slowly working its way up. Decided to go there just before the fireworks commenced with which Dublin celebrated the installation of a clock counting down the seconds until the turn of the millennium (courtesy of a lottery agency, the clock not the seconds :-). Anycase, so I went to this bar, nothing special on my mind but to check it out and the write a review for you, the (hopefully) interested reader. And international it was. Sharing the table were a German, somebody from Belfast and last but not least someone from Boston, the second largest settlement of Irish people abroad. We had a jolly good time discussing various important matters such as our favourite German beer brands (as it turns out, the guy from Belfast used to work in the heart of the Rhineland, an area with which I'm not too unfamiliar meself) and the importance of micro-brewery for the caring consumer in general and the drinking folks in particular. To cut a long story short, I missed the fireworks (now, that tells a story) that were allegedly not so great anyway (as one might have expected). I almost forgot: the bar itself is nothing extraordinary, just a cosy little thing not too spacious (though there seems to be a lounge which I didn't check out). There seems to be a commedy gig on Mondays and Thursdays, check local listings. Rating: $$$, ###
• Isolde's Tower (Off Parliament St.): Just across the road from the Turk's Head this newest addition to the craze called Temple Bar can be found. A late bar is just one of the many features of this cosy little boozer. The crowd was mellow when I went there and the beer was relatively cheap. The music included all those sing-along stuff from 70s to the 90's just to please the clientele which wasn't too young. Nice if you want to get away from it all (esp. the other dead-hip venues). Rating: $$, ###
• Judge Roy Bean's (45 Nassau St.): Conveniently located just across the road from Trinity's south side lies this restaurant / bar combination. There is nothing suspicious to report about the place; the bar resembles an American cocktail lounge without all the tourists (well, in the winter anyway). Beer variety is normal; even all the major American labels are on tap. The restaurant is recommendable: the one time I tried it, they served excellent baked potatoes with some (nearly) authentic Mexican topping for not too much money. Went nice with a Guinness. Rating: $$, ###
• Kavanagh's aka The Gravedigger's Inn (secret location on Dublin's North Side): It was a gloomy night when an expedition consisting of your's truly finally ventured out to find that last bastion of traditional establishments in the greater Dublin borough. After a couple of dead-ends it was finally discovered on the North Side of our Fair City. Without going into the finer details / giving away too much (:-) this is the place to visit if you want to check out a REAL traditional Irish pub in Dublin. Never mind how many tourist guides recommend all these places in Temple Bar(s) (which are pretty much a theme park built for our British friends anyway but don't tell them :-), they cannot touch the real stuff. You'll never meet tourists in the place, never mind stag and hen parties from across the water. It cannot get more authentic: Joe Average enjoying a quiet pint in a traditional Irish interior, snugs, saw dust on the floor - in other words: the works. And it's dead cheap too (never mind the free theatre in the summer time - but that's only for the initiated among us :-). Rating: $, ##### (since it's exceptional!)
  Regarding the location: you don't really expect me to tell where this gem is, do you? Ok, before I get tons of hate email: it's somewhere around the Glasnevin Cemetry - have fun looking for it (so much for a give-away). And don't try any funny stuff on the locals: they are trained to send any suspicious enquirers back to Temple Bar.
• Keating's (1 Mary St): This lively venue on the corner of Jervis St and Mary St seems to have live music nearly every day throughout the week. Mind you, you even are able to see yet unknown instruments (me myself for example for was introduced to a thing called "auto harp" which seemed like a crossing between an ordinary harp and a keyboard). Apart from that, it's a nice pub (not too overcrowded - at least before the music starts) with a true Irish atmosphere (whatever that is :-). The only drawback: the prices are a bit stiff; hence the rating: $$$, ### Update: The place has been refurbished recently. Apart from the mosaic from hell on the wall (which can only serve as a good example of bad taste), the place has nothing much going for it anymore. Maybe if enough tourists keep taking photos of the mosaic, the proprietors will do something about it :-).
• Kennedy's (32 Westland Row): Apart from O'Neill's the other famous Trinity student hang-out of the campus. Most of the Trinity Volleyball team can be found there after their training indulging into soft and not so soft drinks. Rather large pub with two separate bar-rooms and, yes, they DO serve Beamish (occasionally :-() there. Rating: $$, ### (since the sandwich supply stops at 10:00 pm sharp) Update: The place runs a night club downstairs these days free of charge if you can make it into the bar on time.
• King's Inn (Bolton St): Nice, cosy pub, not too over-crowded on a normal FRIDAY evening. Friendly people, nobody hassling ye. One major drawback though: the keeper tends to change TV programs without prior notice. I was just looking forward to another episode of "Mr. Beans" (one of my favourites), which was just about to start after another boring feature of "The Bill" (a sleepy serial about UK cops), when the keeper decided to switch over to RTE 1 to get his daily update on that insanity they call World Cup around here. No begging or threatening was able to change his mind. Apart from that: recommendable; Rating: $$, ###
• Kitty O'Shea's (23 Upr Grand Canal St): Named after a famous character in Irish history (well, almost :-), this place is the somewhat last resort in the desert known as the south-side docks. This dire patch of land between the outer limits of Pearse St and Ringsend is the terra incognita with regards to licensed premises. When things took me there recently and I needed a quick fix in the form of a pint of Uncle Arthur's finest, I nearly gave up until I wandered southwards towards the bridge when I hit Kitty's. Nice place with a traditional outfit featuring a clientele from all walks of live. One of the few places in our fair city where you can see bankers happily drinking side by side with dock workers who just finished their shift. They also seem to run a traditional session on the weekends. Check it out! Rating: $$, ### Update: Sadly, this place is no longer. In their infinite wisdom, the new owners of the site decided that it had to make room for yet another hotel cum restaurant (as if Dublin didn't have enough of them already). This means another one of Dublin's landmarks of drinking and entertainment down the tubes... :-(
• The Liberty Belle (33 Francis St.): Another venue on the street that would easily qualify as "The Liberty's Strip" (because of its many, many pubs). One small room serves mostly regulars who are in for a quiet drink (even during the weekends). As a result, nothing strange or fancy to report (it's just not Temple Bar - yet! :-). Rating: $$, ##
• The Lincoln's Inn (Lincoln Place): Quiet place just outside from the Lincoln Gate of Trinity College. Not surprisingly, I ran into mostly sutdent folk when I went there on an ordinary Friday night (i.e. it wasn't too crowded). Nothing extraordinary to report, just the sort of place you prefer to have a quiet pint of whatsoever and something serious to discuss (as last night's soccer results). Rating: $$, ###
• Long Hall (51 South Georges St): As the name suggests, the venue is one, long hall and a bar stretching for miles. When I went there everybody seemed to know everybody else except me. The keeper looking really Irish was talking Afrikaans or a similar dialect to what seemed to be an old male coming from South Africa. Watch out for the mirrors! Rating: $$, ### (because interesting things happen there)
  
• Long Stone (Townsend St): I finally got around to check this venue out after a long series of hints, suggestions and remarks that this pub is actually missing from the list. So I went there. From the outside it just looks like an ordinary pub, though on the second sight the books in the windows look suspicious. This really changed once I was inside. To put into one sentence: this pub is unique in Dublin (as in: haven't seen stuff like that before - and I reckon I've seen a lot around here). In any case, it's a two-storey venue with a rather strange interior in the back room. The fire-place is an open-mouthed face and the entrance to the stairway is an old gate (all solid, no plastic). Regarding the beverages: I've had better pints and the keep was kinda of relaxed on the issue on correct change. But the uniqueness makes up for this. The name actually comes from the primal Viking settlers which erected a huge stone just outside Dublin bay to mark their claim (this reminds of certain species which use body products for the same purpose, but that's another story). This stone was abandoned afterwards and a smaller version re-erected in front of the Garda station in nearby Pearse Street. At least this is what the pub's business cards tell us. Whether this is just Blarney or not remains to be seen - check it out yourself. Rating: $$, ###
• Madigan's (Morehampton Road, Donnybrook Village): Nice one just in the centre of Donnybrook. Excellent homemade food during lunch hours, recommended. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to sample the quality of the Guinness there since I was driving. The low-alcohol lager tasted as usual. Madigan's is actually a group of pubs, the other one are: Lower O'Connell St, Donaghmede Shopping Centre (in the north of Dublin), Lr. Abbey St and North Earl St Rating: $$, ##
• Mahaffy's (44 Pearse St): The place where some of the DSG crowd sometimes hang out (after a hard day's work of course :). People used to be Trinity-related, but now business people are taking over. Rating: $$, ##
• Major Tom's (Stephen's Green Shopping Center): Huge pub/club in the basement of Stephen's Green Shopping center. A very lively atmosphere makes you feel like you're in a club rather in an ordinary pub. The crowd's young; you'll find all sorts of people there, from foreign students burning their travel grants to business people looking for a chat-up. The music is mostly oldies with MOR stuff; sometimes groovy stuff comes in as well. What I really like about this venue is that the stay open til late (two-ish on most weekdays) without NO cover charge when you're in before 11 pm. Expect longish queues on weekends when trying to get in (Doesn't that tell all about it??). Rating: $$$, ###
• Market Hacienda Bar(Mary Abbey Lane): Strangest place I've ever seen in Dublin (and I've seen a lot!). This bar, located near the fruit market, appeared to be locked up completely when I tried to get in, though it was apparently open for business as there was some music playing inside. Rumour has it that the publican has to know you in order to get you in. OK, folks, here's the update: when I was traveling the country recently, somebody up there in Buncrana (Co. Donegal) approached me in a pub (where else anyway?) and said: "You're the one with the pub review on the Internet, aren't ye?" (implying something like "Oh yes, we country people know about technology too, y'know") He continued talking: "Heard you've trouble with getting into the Hacienda bar near the fruitmarket?" (Obviously he actually read the review :-). "I know somebody in Crookhaven (Co. Cork, the ed.) who might be able to help you." Since it's only about three hundred miles from Buncrana to Crookhaven (no way is too long, no mountain too high and no path too narrow for me to keep YOU, the reader, up-to-date & happy) I went there the next day right away. After I got the information, it was back to Dublin to give it a second shot. And it worked. Here are the details: in order to get in you actually have to knock on the door before they unlock the gate, open the door and let you in. Unfortunately, this only works on certain days of the week, sometimes you also have to supply a password which I also got in Crookhaven (and no, it's not "Ken sent me"). Now to the actual review: as the name suggests, the interior is kinda Spanish with plastered walls and a nice open fire. They got two snooker tables and the biggest TV screen I've ever seen in such a small place. Kinda recommendable - if you get in. Rating: $$, ###
• Alfie Mulligan's (Corner of St. Stephen's Green and Lr Leeson St): Nice one just off St. Stephen's Green. Not overly big, it offers tourists and otherwise uninitiated people a rip-off in sandwiches (I paid quite a large sum of money for a rather modest specimen of its kind) with not too cheap beer prices either (but then it's the inner city, presumably they can charge that sort of prices around there). Kinda of pleasant interior with brass handles on the door which are polished preferably at night time as I was able to observe (a hint to publican if he or she should read this: what about avoiding the overhead imposed by the teamsters for this late-night work by having it done during day time and forwarding the resulting savings to the customers in form of more modest prices? - Just my $.02 :-). Rating: $$$, ##
• McDaids (3 Harry St): Nothing much to report about this dim pub just off Dublin's premier shopping pathway. Expensive beverages complement the rather dull interior. Disappointing. Rating: $$$, #
• McGowan's (18 Phibsboro Rd.): This place can be found just before the grand Phibsboro junction, sometimes also known as the turnstile of the north. Don't forget your visas, should you happen to come from places on the southside such as Donnybrook (in that case, bring you dictionary as well) or Ballsbridge. Huge drinking emporium with quite a bustling clientele (refreshing change from Temple Bar), the girls not too heavily dressed (it might as well qualify as the Buskers of the northside). A little incident dampened the festive mood though: one of the bouncer decided to pull the mickey at a member of party because he was waering an earring, mumbling something about a "house policy" and refusing entry subsequently. But due to the persuasive power of some baseball bats the situation was quickly remedied. The quibble has a direct effect on the Rating: $$, ## (since we don't like getting hassle on a Friday night, the week was hard enough).
• Mean Fiddler (Wexford Street): A rather mixed bag actually. This much-hyped venue seems to serve fine food (at least my company who had the special gave it 8 out of 10) and this within a rather unusual interior which isn't really traditional. In fact, it reminded me of these neon bars which were quite fashionable back in the Eighties in places like Germany and the States (but then it always takes them a bit longer to catch up around here :-). The disappointment consisted of the way in which some of the staff behaved (with exceptions proving the rule as usual). My recommendation: if you're into good food, have it to go instead of there. Otherwise I'd recommend some other, better places (since you're not missing much anyway). Rating: $$, #
• Mont Clare Hotel (Merrion Sq.): Nice hotel bar at the north side of Merrion Square. Rumour has it that the food at lunch time must be excellent. Rating: $$$ (it's a hotel!), ###
• *Mother Red Cap's (Christchurch Backlane): Very nice, very hidden venue right behind Christchurch (as the name suggests :-). The German company I had with me quite enjoyed it and so did I. They seem to have live music every night of the week without any cover charge though the schedule suggested that this is not always traditional Irish music (don't say I didn't warn you). Rating: $$, ###
  Trad. session schedule: Wednesdays and Sunday mornings
• Messr. Maguire (Burgh Quay): Just next to the Harp has Dublin's second brewer pub opened its doors. And the stuff is just marvelous. Like other breweries cum pubs, they do lagers, ales and stouts. And you can get the main brands such as Guinness as well (but then who really wants to if you can sample something different). The interior is a bit like a continental cafe and quite cosy (including open fire-places for our American tourists as part of the experience :-). They also have a restaurant upstairs which is open on Mondays as well. The prices are a bit stiff but the food is excellent - you get what you pay for. Rating: $$$, ###
• Museum's Rest (5 Benburb St): This local right across the street from Bargain Town is the ideal hang-out for local REALLY tired of the tourist crowds in Temple Bar. In the rear part, it features a barn-like atmosphere with a really nice fire. And the prices are quite, err, competitive (read: DARN cheap). Bottom-line: a jewel just off the Liffey not to be missed. Rating: $, ###
• Neary's (1 Chatham St): Nice, VERY traditional place just off Grafton St Must have been the hang-out of some writer, but with that large number of them you lose track who drank where. Anyway, decent place for a pint before, during or after a shopping spree. Rating: $$$, ##
• Norseman (Temple Bar): Also located in Temple Bar, this traditional Irish pub is the prototype of a tourist magnet. Not surprisingly, this is the place where you can meet Americans waving their cameras and babbling about their Irish roots. Apart from that it's rather nice. The name relates to the Viking Invasion of Dublin in ancient times (just to show off: it was the Vikings who gave Dublin its name. Dublin comes from the Irish "Dubh Linn" and means "Black Pool", the natives call this town "Baile Átha Cliath"). Like so many other pubs in Temple Bar, this place has undergone a major refurbishment recently and some people think that it has lost some of its character in the process (read: it has become much more hygienic). Back to the Rating: $$, ###
• The Oak (81 Dame St): This the other half of the pub called Thomas Read's. Pretty much the same interior and crowd. Rumour has it that this venue has a late licence which I haven't checked out myself (yet!). Rating: $$$, ###
• O'Brien's (Dame St, opposite the National Bank Center): Popular venue, even amongst non-DSG'lers. Wooden tables and chairs contribute to the cosy character of this pub. When we went there just before a bash on a Friday night, it was rather packed. They seem to do some sort of grub which I haven't checked out yet. Definitely the place to warm up before (ad)venturing deeper into the red-light district commonly known as Temple Bar (for all ye Dubs: THIS WAS A JOKE! Don't send me email!). Rating: $$$, ###
• *O'Donoghue's (15 Merrion Row): Lively pub with good traditional music on a regular basis. Normally very packed so get there early. Rumours have it that they have pub grub also (which I haven't checked out myself yet). Kinda expensive. Rating: $$, ###
  Trad. session schedule: nightly
• O'Looney"s (High St): This pub can be found just up the hill from the Brazen Head and O'Sheas Merchant. It used to be called Papa Joe's before that hostile buy-out and John used to play there on Saturdays until he was sacked by a new management. Hence, much of the atmosphere is lost these days. Rating: $$$, #
• O'Neill's (37 Pearse St): Ok, ok, here it is. On popular demand (read: since some people really kept nagging), I finally made up my mind and included this famous hang-out for Trinity students. Basically, this is all there is to it: because of the very close location to the campus, you'll find mostly students here (in various stages of intoxication even on Mondays) and occasionally the odd non-student regular. Rating: $$$, ##
• O'Neill's (2 Suffolk St): The other O'Neill's in the city centre. I've been told that this the place where the other sort of Trinity students (read: from the Arts block in contrast to us techies :-) hang out. To me it's just another pub (seriously, I'm not very convinced of this place, but then you may find it charming or even traditional). Rating: $$$, ##
• *O'Sheas Merchand (Opposite the Brazen Head): Beautifully restored pub just off the Liffey. This is the venue where I saw one of the liveliest set-dancing sessions in Dublin so far. Interesting interior consisting mainly of old, rugged signposts (presumably "borrowed" from the places where they belonged originally). Rating: $$, ###
  Trad. session schedule: nightly and Sunday afternoon (5-7)
• The Oval Lounge (78 Mid Abbey St): The local of the hacks (sorry, "writers" :-) from the Independent (since just next door from their main offices). Hence, sometimes also termed simply "The Independent". Located on the corner of O'Connell St and Abbey St, this two-storey place features drawings of some people who worked for the Independent. Sometimes quite funny, it tells a lot about the clientele of the place. Another peculiarity are the the powerful speakers this place has to offer. Located on the second floor, they are even able to penetrate conversations downstairs. Since I hadn't been upstairs when that shock-wave first hit me, I immediately climbed the stairs to inspect this further. I've never seen smaller speaker producing such a heavy and bass-loaded sound (not even in America and that should tell story :-). Really impressed, I returned to my base downstairs and ordered another quick one for the road, making a mental note not to forget to mention these speakers in the review of the place. Rating: $$, ### (Since the music which came from these speaker was good)
• Palace Bar (21 Fleet St): Nice three- or two-storeyed pub (my memory fails to provide with the necessary details here, it was kinda late, the light was dim, I was enjoying the Guinness, you know that sorta situation :), upper decks are rather intimate for quiet conversations (at least before 9 pm). And, as one of my sources suggest, you can meet anybody there; from a college professor to a serious cultie (local expression for the sort of people elsewhere known as Rednecks). Hence the Rating: $$, ###
• Palmerstown House (Palmerstown Village): Huge drinking emporium on the outskirts of our fair city. Has been refurbished recently which caused management to introduce some new rules for the beloved clientele. Tractors and other farming vehicles are now banned apart from Mondays (when business is so slow that they try to hang to every customer dearly) and mobile phones are now mandatory on the weekends (maybe somebody should tell them that they already on the way out inside the city limits :-). Other than that, it's still a good hunt for animal lovers of all kinds (but don't quote me on that :-) and it's miles away from Ballsbridge (which has its advantages too). Rating: $$, ###
• Pav(Trinity College): This is the second venue on the Trinity campus. As with the Buttery, access is restricted to Trinity students (theoretically), but sometimes they DO check student IDs (but more in the Buttery than here). The Pav is the smaller pub of the two. Rather ordinary, nothing much to say about. Rating: $ (since we don't rip off students on the campus), ##
• The Pembroke (Lower Pembroke St): Nice, laid-back place just behind at the city end of Pembroke Street (if one can call it that). Beautiful interior with some nice Swedish female staff who likes to pull jokes on the innocent punter who just utters a request for... food (of course, not what you think! :-). Don't miss the stained glass ceiling and the tasty grub. A bit on the dear side (or is it just me, getting old and not going out that much any more?) Rating: $$$, ###
• The Porterhouse (Corner of East Essex St. and Parliament St.): Right on the western edge of Temple you can find Dublin first micro-brewery and pub, the Porterhouse. The beer is trendy and so are the people. The bills includes a good variety of beers, among them an oyster beer (allegedly made with real oysters) and a good red ale (which in fact reminded me of some of that marvelous stuff you get down there in Bavaria called Kupferbier). Having heard that the prices tend to be stiff, I was pleasantly surprised that even the more exotic beers are not dearer than your ordinary pint of lager elsewhere). Rating: $$, ### (because the beer is excellent)
• Portobello (Portobello Bridge): Large pub just off Portbello Bridge. Nothing special, though the prices are alright. Good venue to watch any sport-related event (like the Wurld Coop), since this place has many TVs. Besides this a nice, cosy place (NOT on Thursdays!) when you're into TV (-noise). Rating: $, ##
• Prawda (Liffey St): A new, stylish venue just north of the Hapenny Bridge across the Liffey. It looked really busy during the usual haunting season (queue at least twenty yeards), so I didn't really bother until I could make it earlier. And it was still crowded when I got into the place at around 8pm. As the name suggests, a true Russian place (although they still serve the staple diet of imported and domestic beer, see above). The upwardly mobile crowd surely takes some business away from other regular yuppie haunts such as the Globe (although the mobile phone indicator is quite low: I only hear three of these signs of times modern ringing while I was there for half an hour). If that sort of clientele normally makes you churn, don't despair: the interior makes up for it! From the outside, it looks like your ordinary loft, but stretches for miles and miles to the back. Kinda resembling a pre-Perestroika mixture of steel factory and submarine, very trendy. And never mind the comedy factor: while I was there, a punter asked me where the toilets are (all the writing is in Russian). Putting on my best Russian, I answered "Over there, stupid." What a laugh - especially considering his facial expression (but then I've been known to be rude). Rating: $$$, ###
• The Quay's Bar (Temple Bar Square): Can't report much about it since we couldn't get in. One of my company was walking on crotches at the time and the bouncer decided that he wouldn't blend with the upmarket clientele of the place. In a true act of support we all decided to give this place a miss since such behaviour is just not on. Rating: ?, -### (I don't like arrogant behaviour towards handicapped people)
• Quill (1 Arran Quay): My local. In order to improve the business during the evening hours the following rating: $, ####. On a more serious matter: quite nice venue (otherwise I wouldn't hang out there :-) just off the Liffey which has been reopened recently. Some people have brought printed versions of this review there (in search of a discount?) which surprised the keeper. Though I doubt that they got lucky but maybe I will if enough people tell them that I sent them. This will allow me to spend more money elsewhere i.e. go new places which in turn improves this pub list (you get the idea). The Rating: see above :-).
  Trad. session schedule: Thursdays and Saturdays.
• Quinnlan's (Corner of Chapel St and Parnell St): Small, cosy venue. Seems to turn into a biker's venue during the weekends. Was rather quiet when I went there (Monday during Christmas season). The locals were rather light-headed folks; I enjoyed watching them making fun out the a really locked chap. Oh yes, I almost forget: they have Beamish! Rating: $$, ###
• Ralph's Porter House (Francis St.): Directly across the street from the Tivoli, this large two-storey venue features lively entertainment on Saturday nights (aka Karaokee). Apart from that, nothing much to report. No fancy interior, no naked women, no blood-sports; just your ordinary local for a quiet drink (if you manage to stay downstairs, Karaokee is upstairs). Rating: $$, ##
• Rath Mines Inn (82 Lower Rath Mines Rd.): This rather large pub is located in the centre of Rath Maonis (the Irish spelling), flat-land where mostly students live. Not surprisingly, most of the regulars are students. Loud, smoky atmosphere does the rest to create a prototype of a pub about which you can tell your kids the type of story when they ask how you met Mum when you were studying in Dublin. Nice live gigs every week (mostly Country stuff though). Rating: $$, # (I don't like Country Music :)
• The Regal Inn (2 Hawkins St): Nice pub just across the street from the Screen Cinema Center. What makes this venue a must are the people there. I was quietly enjoying my <insert your favourite drink here> when the crowd next to started waffling. I cannot recall the exact words, but the conversation went something like this: "Hi Susan (names changed for the protection of the not-so-innocent), haven't seen you in ages". "Glad to see you, Peter. Gosh, just returning from Berlin and just stopping by on my way to New York to see whether Dublin is still in the shape I left it (imagine this with the usual yuppie-like attitude, only this time taken to an extreme) [Editor's comments: What do you think, darling? That the Brits had packed Dublin in and taken it across the channel? Get a life! {No offence across the sea - None taken, the Brits :-} ]. "You see, people I just met say, 'Oh, you hair has changed'. They just couldn't BELIEVE I was over there on the continent doing business a YEAR now. Gee, time passes so quickly, YOU KNOW." At this stage it was quite hard not to offend them by bursting into loud laughter. I never ever heard such an artificial dialog - it was marvelous. I was really surprised that she didn't pull out her mobile (or is it not fashionable with this clientele anymore?) and just 'rang the connection in LA just for the craic' :-). Rating: $$, ### (Due to the superb entertainment value though I can't guarantee that they are there all the time.)
• Regan's (Townsend St): Just next door from the Long Stone, this working-class oriented venue unlike its neighbor bears nothing spectacular apart from a worn-out TV (if you could call that spectacular at all). Quiet, even on a Saturday night, it's the right place to finish off one's earthly existence (sorry about the sarcastic tone, I just wasn't overly impressed). Rating: $$, #
• Rumpoles (18 Parliament St): Little pub near the quays, normally very smoky (Theresa doesn't like it). Nice interior with posters of ancient films. Loads of Germans (for some strange reason). Rating: $$, ##, Newsflash: This watering hole does no longer exist and/or is undergoing a major renovation at the moment.
• Ryan Bro(ther)s (28 Thomas St): Tiny place just opposite the many churches on Thomas St. Apart from the huge TV set nothing fancy to report from there apart from the fact that a pint of plain is kinda cheap there. Rating: $, #
• Sackville Lounge (Sackville Place): This venue off O'Connell Street is definitely for you if you are royalist. I had the opportunity to get engaged into a conversion with a prototype of this species. He started with mocking about the EU, trying to convince me that Ireland was better off before it joined (never mind the huge amount of money called structural funding which is injected into this country year after year). Fortunately, after buying another bottle of whiskey (which wasn't his first one for sure), this interesting person decided to leave. Of course this anecdote doesn't say much about the pub, so here is the Rating: $$, ##
• Sheehan's (17 Chatham St): Nice, little cosy pub in the vicinity of Grafton St It was rather quiet when I went there apart from some Germans babbling about the driving conditions in Ireland. Since I was standing really close, I couldn't help but overhearing part of their conversation. Basically, they were slagging off the fact that on these shores you get a driver's license without a strict formal training as it is the case in Germany and the implications that this has on the every traffic around here (to a certain extent they got a point allright). Anycase, they were really flabbergasted when I said trying to recollect my finest, accent-free German "It's not that bad, you know. It could be worse, we could be driving on the wrong side of the road". Great fun! Rating: $$$, ### (downside: no guarantees that there always some simpleminded foreigners around, upside: they do have Caffrey's)
• Sinnots Bar (St. Stephen's Green Shopping Centre): Huge underground venue just below the shopping centre and not too far away from Major Tom's. Very nice bar with some of the more famous writers and other artists this country has produced so far on their walls (for the uninitiated: watch out for the descriptions provided on the legends next to the pictures). There seems to be grub available which I haven't checked out myself yet. Live music commences every night throughout the week from 11.45 pm to the wee hours (they seem to have a late licence). Rating: $$$, ###
• Slattery's (Capel St): The place where I fell in love with this town back in.... (which has been a troubled relationship ever since). Traditional Irish pub with traditional Irish atmosphere (lots of strong language to pick up), this pub near the Fruit Market is frequented by ordinary people like you and me. Very good live gigs on weekends. Rating: $$, #### Update: One of my favourite cover bands, Jack of Hearts (somewhat of a Dublin institution), plays there no longer. After the premises was sold recently the Sunday night spot moved to Charles Stewart on Parnell St. And so have the groupies, regulars and fans - you know who you are.
• Slattery's (Lr Rathmines Road): Another Slattery, this time on the junction of the lower Rathmines and Terenure Road. Quiet spot in a Dublin suburbian setting, hotting up over the weekend though. Ideal spot for proposing if you really want to do it in a pub(lic) but just hate the posers applauding (you know what I mean :-). Rating: $$, ##
• Stag's Head (1 Dame Court): Cosy little place off South Georges Street. Though quite central, sometimes a rather quiet venue with an interesting atmosphere to meet REAL Dubliners (whatever that is). The crowd is an ordinary one (the posers tend to hang out in the Globe which is next door). Rumours have it that this was/is one of the hang-outs of some DSG people. Good warm-up place for the Rí-Rá, which is a nightclub just around the corner. Rating: $$, ###
• Strawberry Hall (Strawberry Beds, Chapelizod): The missing link between the Angler's Rest and the Wren's Nest down there in that beautiful patch called Strawberry Beds just off the upper Liffey. Old, traditional pub, not flooded by noisy, nosy tourists at all (too hidden for that, I reckon) and they have Beamish. There seems to be life music on weekends. Nothing fancy, but no cover charge. And, yes, they have a beer garden just beside the Liffey. Rating: $, ###
• The Temple Bar (Temple Bar): Formerly known as "Flannery's" this role model of a traditional Irish pub right in heart of Temple Bar is a very busy venue, especially during the Tourist season. Its interior is not exactly known for its unique style as some other venues whose arrival this city was able to witness recently (But, hey, you wouldn't really expect this from your local either, would you? We leave the posh places to the people with the mobiles, won't we? :-). But here the craic is mighty. Hence the Rating: $$, ### News Flash: This place has undergone a major refurbishment and lost some of its character but it's still a venue for a good night out.
• Thomas Read's (Corner of Parliament St and Dame St): THE place for posers in the inner city. Though I don't like this crowd particularly, I have to admit that one can meet interesting people there. Great selection of the handsome and beautiful (that includes the staff!) and good music two. Interior includes column with movie poster on it. If only the place wasn't so dear. This watering hole is interconnected to the Oak, so one can freely roam around. Rating: $$$, ### Latest update: Yes, they do have nice foreign beer such as German Weissbier (much appreciated of course :-), though fairly expensive.
• Thing Mote (Suffolk St): Rocking place right in the city center. They play all sorts of music (but no live music) and are quite packed on weekends. The venue of choice if you don't wanna do a lot of talking but just listen (to music). Selection of drinks is rather ordinary and somewhat expensive. Recommendable for a nice night out. Rating: $$$, ###
• Thorn Bush (98 Parnell St): Small pub behind Fibber Maggee's where sometimes strange things happen. I was quietly drinking my pint and listening to a spontaneous gig of traditional music when a man (a customer, not a member of staff) urged me either to leave or to sit at his table. I did the decent thing and responded in Irish. This obviously scared him off and so he left. Apart from that: REALLY cheap beer. Rating: $, ### (music)
• TJ's Bar (Corner of Kevin St and Patrick St): The insider place on the border of Dublin 8. Forget Temple Bar(s) and other so-called in-places on the south side. Located not too far away from St. Patrick's, the place looks quite unassuming but has a hell of a lot going for it. Don't let the OAP's confuse you, the place really gets red-hot after dark with one of Dublin's finest spinning the tables. There's a pool table, high-tech TVs and one of the cheapest and best pints of black around. Rating: $, #### (well deserved) Rating: $$, ###
• Toners (139 Lr. Baggot St): One of the oldest and most famous pubs. A beautifully preserved interior contributes much to the lively atmosphere of this watering hole. The crowd consists mainly of business people gathering from the offices nearby as well as Spanish techies spending EU-money which would have gone into research projects otherwise (:-). Another plus: they DO serve Beamish! Hence the Rating: $$, ###
• The Turk's Head Chop House (Corner of Parliament St and Essex St West): Brand new venue at the place where the Parliament's Inn used to be. Flashy interior with the matching people: mostly the young and beautiful (so was figured I was a bit misplaced :-). There is a kind of a dance venue downstairs which is open til late. This nightclub used to be free, but things definitely have changed since then. The charge is average (I paid a fiver on a weekend), but then the music really kicks a... (to say the least). Rating: $$$, ###
• Upper Deck (Richmond Row): An ordinary pub for ordinary people in Portobello, not too exciting. No music, just a barking TV. Rating: $$, ##
• USIT Club (Aston Place): Stylish pub between Fleet St and the quays run by the national student union, postmodern interior (actually, I have never seen pub furniture made entirely out of stainless steel). You must have a USIT ID in order to get in (though guests are allowed occasionally), the place has a night club also. Rating: $, ###
• Wood Quay Bar (Fishamble St): Stylish venue right next to the hotel (there is only one hotel in this street, just in case you were wondering, and Fishamble St is not that long :-). Not exactly your traditional bar/lounge, but a rather posh thing for the more up-market clientele. I just checked it out for a coffee, but it's definitely on the list for one of the weekends. Rating: $$$, ###
• The Wren's Nest (Strawberry Beds, Chapelizod): This jewel among Dublin's pubs just off the Liffey is one of the oldest. Research suggests that the earliest traceable foundation goes back to 1588. In that regard, it has much more atmosphere than Ireland's oldest pub, the Brazen Head, which is quite heavily polluted with tourists all year round. So if you're tired of having to listen to strange tongues like American English, Italian and other crap, I would recommend going there. Unfortunately this pub isn't very accessible from the city center. In order to find it, go past the Phoenix park and the Angler's Rest (ask any innocent bystander). Continue for another 4 miles on this road until you find it on your right hand side. Good craic on weekends, but doesn't open before nine o'clock in the evening (but quite relaxed on closing times :-). Rating: $, ###
• Zoo Bar (Sentana Place): Quite near the rear end of Trinity, this bar is mostly frequented by rather young Trinity students and even younger people (this is why they check IDs on every second customer). Rather hip place with even hipper music. Nice cocktails, but expensive. As many other places, it turns into a nightclub later on. Rating: $$$, ###

Night Clubs:

• Boardwalk (O'Connell Bridge): Nightclub just below the Harp Complex. Quite expensive when they don't have any promotional drinks on the menue. The music is worse: main stream disco stuff and the DJs tend to impersonate their role-model of a DJ: talking over the songs all the time and playing each track just half a minute. Rating: $$$, (yes, no # in this case since I don't like waffling over music).
• Break for the Border (Mercer St): A bar which turns into a night club later on. Expensive hang-out for the rich and beautiful being able to afford the stylish cocktails. Interesting concerts and live gigs. Rating: $$$, ##
• Club M (Cope St): The place for young bank clerks looking desperately for female company with the music being mainly main-stream. When you want to have a real good laugh seeing all the young males trying to chat up girls, I would recommend this place, otherwise stay away. Rating: $$$, ## (since I ain't a bank clerk)
• Fibber Maggee's (Parnell St): Two floor venue which used to be an excellent hang-out. But apparently under managment, things have changed a bit. The still play black stuff on the upper deck and the place won't win an award for the most hygienic night-club in Dublin, but all the good stuff down-stairs seems to be a thing of the past. And the staff can be quiet annoying at times from a paying customer's point of view. Rating: $$, ## Update: The place has undergone a major revamp, changed its name and is now called "Aquarium" (the downstairs part only). The name may be different but the music and the vibes are still the same (although some of its old-world charme was lost during the transformation of the facilities into something that now really resembles toilets).
• Garda Club (Harrington St): Run by the police (not the band, the executive is called "Garda Siochanna" around here, hence the name of the club), this disco is also open to ordinary mortals not wearing a uniform. The clientele seems to consist of nurses looking for young, single policemen (I know that this is unjustified bias, but I had the impression). Music: good main-stream stuff, mostly charts. Unfortunately, the DJ sometimes gets the blues and plays indecent, slow stuff like Cliff Richards, etc. which makes you throw up. Rating: $, ##(#)
• Kitchen (Temple Bar): Run by U2, this place in the Clarence Hotel is one of the most expensive Discos in Dublin (if you CAN get in). Venue for the celebs, dancing to the latest rave and techno stuff (serious dance music, as one of the bouncers told me). Rating: $$$, ##
• POD (Harcourt St): Another in-place with interesting interior (some staff told me that this one won an award once ago), looking kinda mixture of scrap yard and postindustrial art workshop. Music is strictly dance-floor and chart-oriented. Check out the student special on Wednesday (if being a student applies to you :). Rating: $$, ###
• The Pier (Temple Bar): This nightclub below the Fitzwilliam's is a rather MOR place. Nothing special, just a decent place to hang out and pass the night away. Unlike most other night-clubs though they have a student special on Wednesdays which is worth checking out. Music: charts and latest dance-floor, sometimes oldies also). Rating: $$, ##
• Rí-Rá: Just around the corner from the Globe, this funky nightclub is a nice change from the more techno-oriented MOR clubs. The music is a variety of rare groves, mixed with jazz and funk, exactly the environment for people who wear their shades at night. Since there is NO techno, the clientele is definitely older than 19 (another advantage if you don't exactly belong to that age group). When you climb the stairs, you can return to the Globe for a drink away from the dance floor (at this time of night the Globe is closed of course). Rating: $$, ###
• The System (Sth. Anne Street): Conveniently located right in the city center between Grafton St and Dawson St, this venue sounded promising. So into the gear, apply whatever is felt to be necessary for the occasion (some prefer aftershave whereas other wouldn't leave the house without a decent helping of wet gel, me myself simply sticks to old world's charm) and off it is to this spot we kept hearing so much about (interesting music, splendid members of the opposite sex, you get my drift). Anyway, the result was rather disappointing. The crowd was OK, but the venue lacked this something extra which tends to make a place interesting (I won't dignify the music with mentioning it - a complete disaster, but then it really depends what you're into, I guess). Maybe I just caught a bad night, but the place is definitely in need of improvement. Rating: $$$, #
• Temple Theatre (Temple Lane off Dorset St.): Huge venue on the north side catering mainly for the techno and easy-beat oriented crowd. What makes this venue worth checking out is the fact that it is actually located in an old church (like the Limelight in Manhattan for our friends from New York). The main dance floor on the ground level caters for the more MOR clientele whereas the crypt downstairs looks after the ecclectic bunch. Security is tight and queues are long so do arrive early to avoid disappointment. And take lots of money with you since the cover charge is one of the highest in the greater Dublin area. Rating: $$$, ##

Comedy in Dublin

• International Comedy Improv (International Bar, Mondays, 9 pm): stand-up comedy in it's purest. A variety of contemporary humour (ok, start again, the ed.). Dublin comedy that kick's a... (much better, the ed.) Three local lads (one from Cork :-) strut their stuff and improvise as if there was no tomorrow. A good laugh if you can make it on a Monday.
• Comedy Improv (Ha'penny Inn, Tuesdays, 9.30 pm): Similar name, but wilder than the thing in the International Bar. Run by a presenter called Groinia from the country (no offence, dear, especially no need to beat me up), this is normally a gig where you can feel free to heckle as much as you like. But be warned: the artists do not take any crap!
• The Mad Cow Comedy Club (International Bar, Thursdays, 9 pm): No stand-up comedy, but rather mixed bag of foreign and local artists. Some of the material presented didn't go down to well with the punters the night I went there; hence the huge amount of heckling that was going on. Maybe I just hit a bad day?
• The Ha'penny Laugh Commedy Club (Ha'penny Inn, Thursdays, 9.30 pm): Again run by Groinia, these gigs tend to be a bit more formal (but not less entertaining than the stand-up comedy on Tuesdays). Preference lies on Irish artists with local material, although the odd Briton occasionally makes it into the program, disguised as a native of course (not that the punter didn't suss it, mind you!).
• Murphy's Laughter Lounge (Eden Quay, used to be the Screen Cinema; gigs on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays): changing variety of comedians (Irish and international). The time I went there they had a highly recommended selection (can't say that about the beer though: they only serve Murphy's and Heineken in plastic cups - yuk!). Send an email for a listing of events.

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